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Saint John's

June 8, 2015 by John Gillett

Leaving for the Seal HuntI went sealing in a speedboat only on holidays or weekends in 1972 and 1973 because I was attending trade school and college. On a mild, calm day one February, I had a holiday from school, so Winston Froud and I decided to go sealing. A lot of small speedboats and their crews had already gone. There was a band of water between the ice floes and the land, but most coves and harbours were still frozen. I borrowed my father-in-law’s boat, belonging to Allan Roberts. Allan was a lighthouse keeper in Twillingate, and had a small speedboat that he could handle himself, hauling it up or launching it.

Winston and I put an old, Gale fifteen-horsepower outboard engine on this small boat and departed Sleepy Cove on Twillingate Island. It was very foggy and calm and you could only see a hundred feet in front of the boat on times, so we steered by compass. Most of the Twillingate boats went out of Sleepy Cove because this was the only place free of ice. The ice had broken off from Lower Head to Western Head, a distance of six miles, keeping a lot of sealing boats trapped by the shorefast ice from getting out. If you had a boat in Sleepy Cove you were either lucky or unlucky to get sealing that day. Winston and I were among the unlucky.

We were the last boat to leave the cove because we didn’t have things ready, so it took a while before we were able to leave. We steered in a northwest direction for a few miles and didn’t see any seals, so we continued on. We heard a few rifle shots, and it wasn’t long before we saw a seal. I put the crosshairs on its head and was about to squeeze the trigger when I heard a roar like a big jet about to take off. This was wind coming.

I shouted to Winston, “Heave her around,” but then the wind hit us, nearly capsizing our little boat. There were ice pellets and freezing spray coming from the northeast. I knelt down in the front of the boat with the compass. Winston would watch my hand for directions; he couldn’t see very far because of the ice pellets hitting his eyes.

The temperature dropped well below freezing in just minutes, and in order to see which direction to go, the compass face had to be cleaned constantly because of freezing spray coming over it. Our situation was becoming critical; ice was starting to make on the boat, causing the windward side to go deeper into the water. The paddles, gaff, and guns were frozen in one big sheet of ice. And then our engine started to freeze up and slow down. We bailed water the best we could, but it was freezing in the bottom of the boat. When we moved, a slab of ice that had frozen on us from the spray would fall off our rubber clothes. I shouted out to ask Winston if he was all right and he would nod yes, but I was getting anxious.

We still hadn’t seen land, but the visibility was getting a bit better and the wind now was northern and getting colder. Suddenly, I saw the top of Sleepy Cove, Gull Island, but we were not safe yet. The engine seemed to be slowing down more, and we had to cross Sleepy Cove Tickle yet. When we got in the lee of the island we wanted to beat the ice off the boat before we went across the tickle, but we didn’t want to slow down the engine or take too much time, afraid that the engine would quit. We could see the seas going up the cliffs across the tickle and knew it would be certain death for us if the engine stopped.

In the raging water we decided to make a run for it across to the beach in Sleepy Cove. Water was coming over the boat in all directions. Finally, we headed for the cove, where water was breaking almost to the top of the beach. As we were heading into the cove, I shouted as loud as I could to a couple of fellows on shore to grab our boat when we came in on the surf. If they didn’t grab the boat, we would be rolled over from the top weight of ice when the waves retreated, and we would be thrown into the water.

The two fellows that I sang out to were George Rogers and his young son Lloyd, who were neighbours of mine. They had gotten in just minutes before we did. Once we hit the high point of the beach, George and Lloyd held the boat fast, and by the time the next wave came, Winston and I helped get it out of the water. Some of the boats that came in after us swamped on the beach. After we had our boat secure, we headed home with thoughts of the other sealers who were still out there. Winston told me later that he prayed all the way in.

Darkness came and there were sealers missing. The weather was still bad and getting colder. My next-door neighbour, Joan Clarke, advised us that her brother, Roland Churchill, wasn’t in. Her husband, Martin, wanted to know if we saw him and I told him no. We didn’t see anyone out on the water. It wasn’t until later that night that Roland and his sealing buddy Clarence Clarke showed up safe. They had made several attempts to come to land, but the water was too rough. Each time they had to go back to the safety of the ice.

Roland and Clarence had a seal aboard but couldn’t get it overboard because it was frozen to the bottom of the boat. On their last attempt they made it to a cove on Burnt Island, just off Twillingate, and had to make the long trek through deep snow across Burnt Island Tickle to their homes. The wind had blown Clarence’s cap away and his soaked, wool mittens were misplaced in the dark. Clarence had a one-piece snowsuit on and it was frozen so hard that it had to be cut off. Both Roland and Clarence spent a week in the hospital with frozen hands and ears. I went to see Clarence at the hospital and he was a pitiful sight, with watery bladders hanging down from his ears and hands.

Twelve o’clock, midnight, came and Wilbert Legge and his buddy Roland Cooper, Sr. were still missing. The icebreaker had been notified. They started searching for them and picked them up around 2:00 a.m., half a mile from the Berry Island, Herring Neck. Wilbert and Roland had hauled their boat up on the ice and tipped it up on its side, making it into a lean-to. They broke pieces of wood from their boat and put them in a pile to start a signal fire if they saw a boat’s lights. When they saw the lights of the icebreaker, they threw gas on the wood and lit the fire. Wilbert and Roland, along with their boat, were on the Coast Guard ship for three days. In their words, “We were treated like kings by the skipper and crew. The best of food and nice white linens on our bunks every night.”

Leaving for the Seal Hunt: The Life of a Swiler
By John Gillett
$18.95, paperback
Flanker Press, February 2015

Filed Under: Excerpts Tagged With: Flanker Press, Hart's Cove, John Gillett, Leaving for the Seal Hunt: The Life of a Swiler, Newfoundland and Labrador, Saint John's

May 4, 2015 by Nellie P. Stowbridge

Blank white book w/pathThere was no way to warn Captain Clarke that a storm was on its way. Families cringed in fear that the Southern Cross would plough into the heart of the gale. A full day passed without a report that the vessel had been sighted.

Maggie hurried down the road to where a crowd had assembled outside the post office located in the back of Porter House. Their feet made restless scuffing as they waited for their weekly mail. Maggie scanned the posting on the outside of the door giving the arrival time for all the sealing vessels. There was no news.

Abe Petten, beside her, said, “Old Hattie’s inside making clickin’ sounds on a gadget that’ll bring all the news. When she’s finished she’ll post it on the door. I hope it’s not all bad.”

A man behind banged him on the back. “Away with yer and feel your head. That captain and his ship knows each other full well. There’s worry for naught.”

The post office door was finally opened and then the wicket. Maggie pushed close. Men and women gripping their children’s hands stood outside waiting. The calm weather had not eased the storm brewing in their hearts, dread suspended above their heads like a sword. William scuffed along the path to the site of a dozen men gathered around. People pushed to get close as the postmistress read a cable: “At 7:00 p.m., Sunday March 29, a wireless message from Channel–Port aux Basques, on the southwest corner of Newfoundland, informed St. John’s that on Saturday, the twenty-eighth, about 6:30 p.m., the Southern Cross was spotted passing about seven miles out. She was down in the head with all flags flying, a signal that the barque was going home with a bumper crop estimated between 17,000-25,000 pelts.”

William’s mind settled at the news that the Southern Cross was finally on her way home. Families cheered the captain on with their prayers knowing he was racing to be the first in St. John’s harbour, a distinction every captain dreamed of claiming. She had her load of pelts and flippers and she should be in port Tuesday evening or Wednesday morning.

The strain of waiting eased.

“She’s coming,” one man said running down the road and throwing his cap into the air. Off to one side a father stood silent. He was waiting for news of his son who was on the SS Newfoundland.

All along the Avalon, Butlers, Battens, Busseys, Pettens, Taylors, Stanleys, Bishops, Kennedys, and Porters waited, spirits lifted now that the Southern Cross was on her way home.

“There’ll be some fiddlin’ and whistlin’ now,” someone said.

Families’ hearts grew light and expectant. Floors were scrubbed and pots shined and filled with stews and soups from food garnered from their sparse cellars. The men went about sawing and laying in wood with renewed energy. Having been anchored with fear for what seemed like a lifetime, families now waited with welcoming hearts. Still, their minds weren’t far from the men on their way home; there were uneasy glances at the sky and furrowed brows for signs of a weather moon.

The storm erupted on the last day of March, swells swallowing each other over and over, while the sea opened its mouth with sprays of white spit. People standing outside their homes and looking out to sea felt the sting of snow pellets against their skin. Then heavy, wet snow pelted down. The spring snow had a name.

“Sheilagh’s brush,” a farmer said as he settled his horse in his stable.

“I’d say it’s not,” his son answered. “It’s Sheilagh’s fleece-lined white drawers hanging low and heavy.”

They laughed, forgetting for a moment the vessel on her way home.

Caroline sat inside her house, her lips pressed in a grim line. Room windows were darkened with snow. The shades already drawn. She shocked herself with the thought.

A day later, the first day of April, the storm had worsened. Maggie pulled on her grey woollen coat to go see if William had any news.

“Stay put, me maid,” Liddie urged. “There’s a living screecher out there this mornin’.”

When she saw Maggie determined to go she shrugged. “If that’s what it takes to settle your mind, go, though it won’t be an easy tramp.”

Grateful for her aunt’s understanding, she drew a blue knitted cap over her head and tucked her long light hair into her neck under a thick, varicoloured scarf. She pulled on a pair of double-knitted blue cuffs. Her aunt wrapped hot biscuits in cloth and tucked them in her pocket.

She thanked her and hurried out the door and down the road through driving snow. The wild wind swung like an iced rope in the hands of a madman. A ribbon of silver skin from a birch tree sailed through the air and hit her face. Barbed ice crystals shot up her nose sharp enough to bring tears.

After a long struggle she reached William’s house, her stiff fingers clumsy in lifting the latch on the porch door. The door swung at her like a beast pushing her backwards. She lost her balance and fell while the wind banged the door against its hinges. She dragged herself to her feet, grabbed the latch, and pulled the door back. She got inside and stood shivering in the porch. It was no day for anyone to be out, no day for a ship to be on the ocean.

William seemed to have shrunk inside his shabby clothes. Maggie looked at him sitting by the stove, his face drawn and heavy, his mouth down. Pouches, red and sore-looking, had formed under his eyes. He drew in a heavy breath. “Jamie is unchancy, that he is, to be out in this weather.”

Maggie said nothing as she shed her ice-encased coat, cap, scarf, and cuffs by the stove. Then she took a chair and sat by the fire listening to the screech of wind around the house, its sharp whistling against the windows. The silence between her and William became so heavy that she jumped up. “I’ll make you a fine cup of tea,” she said. She reached into her coat pocket and pulled out her biscuits. She laid them on the table and set the kettle to boil.

When the tea was ready William lumbered to his seat and lifted his cup in shaky white hands. He took a sip and put it down. Then he dipped his biscuits and ate them. He didn’t speak. His mind was crowded reliving stories of men caught on the ice and frozen as solid as statues, others surviving by wrapping themselves in sealskins and lighting fires with blubber. He thought of the many sealers that had disappeared in icy waters never to be heard of again. He hoped that the Southern Cross had left waters too rough for the wooden ship to handle and had found shelter in one of the bays along the coast.

Maggie gathered her belongings where they hung beside the stove, dressed in them half-dried, and went out the door wanting to be away from William sitting silently, brooding.

There was no gentleness anywhere. Wind shrieked and trees swayed in its grip while snow smoked the air. Maggie trudged along like a blind woman feeling her way home, wind and snow like steel needling her skin. She was relieved to get to the house and hurry inside.

Liddie looked up from knitting a sock, worry creasing her brow. She said nothing as her niece hung up her wet clothes beside the fire and went up to her room. The warmth of the wood stove rose to fill the small space with coziness.

Maggie pulled back heavy quilts and slid into bed hauling the quilts back over her shoulders. The stove heat had not reached under her sheets and she shivered until her body heat warmed her. She drifted into sleep and woke with a jerk. She lifted herself on an elbow and stared through the small window. Wind and sleet smacked the thin pane, beat against the house in twists and turns. Her heart lurched. Jamie was out on a vast ocean in contrary weather. “Be safe, Jamie,” she whispered. She remembered Jamie’s mother saying, “Worry is a thief not to be let in.”

That was easier said than done. She could not lock a door or shutter a window against it.

Ghost of the Southern Cross
By Nellie P. Stowbridge
$19.95, paperback, 342 pp.
Flanker Press, February 2015

 

 

Filed Under: Excerpts, Fiction Tagged With: Flanker Press, Ghost of the Southern Cross, Nellie P. Strowbridge, Newfoundland and Labrador, Saint John's

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