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Recipes

February 6, 2018 by Maria Recchia

 

Its origins and sources, its rich cast of characters, and its alternately quotidian and wildly adventurous plot can best be told the same way it has unfolded: layered in fragments and shards and revealing itself in moments of relation, encounter, and exchange.

Pam Hall in Towards an Encyclopedia of Local Knowledge: Excerpts from Chapters I and II

 

Pam Hall, a visual artist, documentary filmmaker and scholar who has lived and worked in Newfoundland for more than 40 years, has produced a stunning book honouring the people of rural Newfoundland and their wide-ranging expertise. Towards an Encyclopedia of Local Knowledge is not only a gorgeous art book; it is also a scholarly work on the nature of knowledge. Her insightful social commentary on our society’s overreliance on scientific knowledge and marginalization of other kinds of knowing distinguishes this as a book about social change.

The Encyclopedia begins with 42 pages of text describing the author’s creative research process and her discerning assessment of the power dynamics of knowledge in our society. Here she lays out a new relationship with knowledge documentation that is deeply respectful and holistic. Her work maintains the integrity of knowledge held by people in a place. Hall challenges mainstream society’s treatment of science as sacred. She examines the power dynamics around knowledge and sets out to change them.

Both the introductory text and the Encyclopedia pages could stand alone. Hall’s writing is as eloquent and compelling as her artwork. When I received this book in the mail, I first looked at the pictures. It includes nearly 150 pages of gorgeous plates, collages of photographs, drawings and typed and handwritten text. Some of the images jump off the page as if three-dimensional. As I relished in the artwork, I got to know the people of Bonne Bay, the Great Northern Peninsula, Fogo Island and Change Islands. All 142 knowledge holders who participated in the project are listed at the beginning of the book, as collaborators who “shared their knowledge in person.” This includes 14 children from Sacred Heart All-Grade School in Conche who became research assistants in the project. Ms Hall’s deep respect for her collaborators is rare among researchers. We meet her collaborators in the Encyclopedia’s pages where they are often referred to by name: “What Lambert Kennedy Knows about how to build a longliner,” “Uncle George Elliott’s technique for making snow shoes,” “Isabella Pilgrim’s moose cutting skills,” “Joe Reid’s jams and jellies” etc.

With “encyclopedia” in the title, I expected something akin to the Britannica volumes I used to write school reports as a child. That is, pockets of general knowledge in alphabetical order with an exhaustive index to make sure you could find the morsel of information you required. But this book has no index and is organized geographically. Chapter I covers Bonne Bay and the Great Northern Peninsula and Chapter II is Fogo Island and Change Islands. With a page about knitting socks next to a page about butchering moose next to a page about building a fishing boat, this Encyclopedia is not organized in a way that allows you to quickly locate information on a specific topic. Here one begins to see the political undercurrent of this work. The knowledge depicted in Hall’s book is deeply imbedded in the people and the places that developed it and this is a radical approach.

The work is based on a definition of knowledge as a process, a verb. This dynamic definition of knowledge, along with a deeply collaborative documentation process, is a most valuable aspect of this work. The process is built upon genuine respect for people and places and the knowledge that emerges from the marriage of the two.

Not only a preservation tool for knowledge in danger of being forgotten, the Encyclopedia pages also depict undeniably modern concepts like how to read the electronics on the bridge of a 60-ft dragger or processing and selling sea cucumbers to China. Other pages describe the marriage of old techniques with new materials like the story of Linda Osmond’s husband Winston, a gardener who likes to try new things. When he grew kohlrabi in his garden Linda made it into pickles:

Just because it is an old recipe doesn’t mean it will not work on new things. A pickle is still a pickle. I might not know about kohlrabi but I know about pickles.

Local knowledge, like scientific knowledge, is not an island in time. It is based on generations of observations that are passed down from grandparents to parents to children, from neighbour to neighbour, from business partner to business partner. Just as scientific knowledge is based on the careful work of past scientists, local knowledge is based on the observations and theories of previous generations and ingenuity.

Clearly the impetus behind many of the Encyclopedia’s pages is to preserve knowledge that is in danger of being lost, as evidenced by the many pages dedicated to wooden-boat-building techniques. But also there are many examples of the resurgence of traditional craft to fill a modern need. On Fogo Island, historic wooden-boat-building techniques are used to create chairs for a luxury inn. Similarly, throughout Newfoundland interest is resurging in traditional low-impact fishing techniques like cod traps and hook-and-line gear to ensure a sustainable harvest as the cod stocks return. At the same time, state-of-the-art fish processing is being developed to provide a profitable high-quality product to get the most from a limited resource.

The value local knowledge brings to our society is unequivocal. Science alone is unlikely to adequately solve today’s environmental problems without the knowledge of the grassroots. In a time of constant worry about climate change, the page about Derek Young’s 30-year daily weather calendar is a tremendous opportunity to study environmental change. What may seem a mundane endeavour becomes a rare and invaluable resource to help understand what the future may hold. As Hall writes:

We have privileged the quantitative, the data-driven, and the statistical forms of knowledge to a dangerous degree—one that erases the qualitative, the embodied, the value-laden, and many individual and cultural ways of knowing that form and inform our embedded relationship within our now endangered ecosystems.

 When society values scientific knowledge above all else, not only does it sideline other types of knowledge, it also sidelines people. I see this over and over again in my work with commercial fishermen who are rarely treated as the experts that they are. Local knowledge is often taken from people and removed from place. Usually it is mapped or listed in a very reductionist way and used by government agencies to make decisions on behalf of the fishing communities.

By proposing that knowledge is most valuable when the connection to people and place is maintained, Pam Hall’s work calls for a different management model, one that involves preserving the integrity of the knowledge and knowledge holders. She envisions deeply democratic, transparent and collaborative decision-making–a change that is sorely needed.

Towards an Encyclopedia of Local Knowledge is a book to be savoured. It is not a quick reference book but the place to go to sense the wide breadth of knowing and the ever-evolving landscape of knowledge. It is a rare presentation that can bring this level of richness and depth to the outside world.

The knowledge captured here is imbedded not only in the places and people of today but in the people and places of old. It recognizes and celebrates the dynamic nature of local knowledge that is continuously forming and reforming as people interact with places and each other.

Even the democracy of visual images and written words cannot convey the totality of the knowledge to the outsider. It can never be more than excerpts. But this remarkable glimpse into the world of rural Newfoundland and the people who shape it gives the outsider a sense of the richness of life in this place. And it inspires us to value our own local knowledge; those things we know how to do, that our mother or grandmother or aunt or father taught us.

Filed Under: # 85 Winter 2017, Editions, Features, Nonfiction Tagged With: art, artwork, Breakwater Books, Cooking, ecology, Encylopedia, environment, epistemology, fishing, Islands, Newfoundland, Newfoundland and Labrador, Oral History, Pam Hall, Recipes, Traditional Knowledge

November 1, 2017 by Karl Wells

Eat Delicious, 125 Recipes for Your Daily Dose of Awesome by Dennis Prescott, is the kind of cookbook you turn to when looking for inspiration, hoping to find an idea of what to cook for supper, or the motivation to visit your local market. It’s such a book for two reasons: the recipes and the photographs of ingredients and finished dishes.

Apart from a couple of sushi recipes–raw fish makes some people squeamish–the clear majority of the 125 recipes would appeal to most palates. Prescott’s dishes are the type you’d find in many first-rate bistros: French toast with grilled peaches, slow-roasted pulled-pork burgers, lobster mac and cheese, pizza and blueberry-rhubarb galette. A few are quite dujour, like the maple-bacon scones–yes, bacon with everything is still in.

Prescott has a popular Instagram account, so it’s no surprise he knows how to snap a smart looking photo. Instagram thrives on pictures of mouth-watering food. In the introductory portion of the book he says he likes to shoot “darker, moodier images that have a raw and rustic aesthetic.” That doesn’t mean they aren’t beautiful. They are. While many dishes are photographed in black, cast iron skillets and earthenware, and on stained, bare wood, I’d call them unpretentious and joyful. One, of roasted carrots with pesto, thanks to composition and lighting, is gallery worthy.

Some readers will be eager to make Prescott’s recipes–I’m sure with success–others may be uncomfortable with the large number and extra cost of ingredients required for many dishes. For example, 25 ingredients for roasted tomato soup with rosemary croutons is, in my view, excessive. Of course, experienced cooks will be confident enough to eliminate some of Prescott’s ingredients and still end up with very good-tasting food. His methods, after all, are sound.

 

[Ed. Note: Courtesy of HarperCollins, below are two recipes, a savoury and a sweet, from Prescott’s book. Here at Atlantic Books Today, our philosophy is that sweets should come first.]

 

(c) Dennis Prescott

SALTED CARAMEL APPLE PARFAITS

MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

If you love salted caramel and apples (so, basically everyone), this is your dessert. Jacked fall flavors with an extra heaping helping of sticky, salted heaven.

Salted caramel is far easier to prepare than the Interwebs will lead you to believe. Just be extra careful when stirring, as it is hotter than the sun. And best to keep any young ones away from the stove, just in case.

The number of parfaits that this recipe will make will depend on the glass size you use. I prefer smaller glasses or jam jars but have also prepared this recipe using large wineglasses. This is the essence of dinner-party friendly. Mix it up, put your spin on it, have fun, eat dessert. Win/win/win.

SALTED CARAMEL

1 cup sugar
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon sea salt

MAPLE SAUTEED APPLES

2 tablespoons butter
11/2 pounds Cortland (Honeycrisp or Sweet Tango are also delicious here) apples (4 large), peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

QUICK PAN GRANOLA

11/2 cups rolled oats
1 cup pecan halves, chopped
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

WHIPPED CREAM

1 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

  1. Make the salted caramel: In a high-sided nonstick pan, heat the sugar over medium heat, stirring continuously. It will turn into strange rock-ish pieces—it’s all good, fear not! Slowly but surely, the sugar will melt and turn into a gorgeous amber color. When the sugar has melted entirely and is now golden brown in color, carefully stir in the butter and let it melt. It will bubble like crazy. Stirring continuously, slowly pour the cream into the pan in a slow and steady stream until it has been incorporated into the caramel. Let the mixture bubble away for 1 minute, then remove from the heat. Stir in the vanilla and sea salt and very carefully pour it into a medium heatproof bowl. Set aside.
  2. Make the apples: Heat a large skillet over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the apple chunks and cinnamon and cook, stirring often, for about 15 minutes, or until the apples are very soft. Add the maple syrup and give the pan a toss to coat the apples. Cook for 1 minute, then transfer to a bowl and set aside.
  3. Make the quick pan granola: Heat a large, dry skillet over medium heat and add the oats and pecans. Cook, turning every minute or so, until the oats are fragrant and have started to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
  4. Place the pan back on the burner and melt the butter and maple syrup. When the syrup is simmering, remove from the heat and stir in the oats and pecans. Mix thoroughly to evenly coat the oats, then transfer to a plate and set aside.
  5. Make the whipped cream: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or armed with a whisk and ambition, whip the cream until thick and glorious and fold in the vanilla.
  6. Time to go to parfait town. Build each parfait with 2 tablespoons of the salted caramel, 2 tablespoons of the apples, and 2 tablespoons of the granola. Top with a dollop of whipped cream, then repeat. Finish with a final drizzle of caramel and serve.

 

(c) Dennis Prescott

MEATBALL PIZZA, THE FRIEND MAKER

MAKES TWO 12-INCH PIES • Of course two of the world’s greatest comfort foods—meatballs and pizza—were predestined to be together. It was fate! I’ve named this recipe the Friend Maker because, like it or not, if you start making food like this at home, your popularity is bound to skyrocket.

MEATBALLS

1 pound best-quality ground beef (80% lean)
1 large free-range egg
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
1/4 cup whole milk
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

PIES

1 recipe Pizza Dough (page 112)
1 cup The Pizza Sauce of Your Dreams (page 113)
8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese
4 teaspoons olive oil
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, cut into chiffonade
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

  1. Place a pizza stone in the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
  2. Make the meatballs: Combine all the meatball ingredients in a large bowl and mix gently with your hands. Roll the mixture into golf ball–size balls in the palms of your hands (you’ll end up with 14 to 16 meatballs). If the meatballs look a little big, fear not! They will shrink as they cook. Set the meatballs on the prepared baking sheet, leaving at least 1 inch of space between each, and bake for 15 minutes, or until nicely browned and cooked through. Set aside.
  3. Make the pizza: Increase the oven temperature to 550°F and let the pizza stone preheat for 30 minutes.
  4. Roll out the dough into two 12-inch rounds on parchment paper according to the directions on page 112. Spread 1/2 cup of the pizza sauce on each dough round, leaving 1 inch around the edges bare. Divide the meatballs between the pizzas and break the mozzarella over the top. Drizzle 2 teaspoons of the olive oil over each pizza.
  5. Working one at a time, transfer the pizzas to the preheated oven as directed on page 110 and bake for 6 to 8 minutes, until the crust is perfectly crisp, the cheese is melted, and your taste buds are going bananas.
  6. Top with the basil and Parm, serve, and become a neighborhood legend.

From Eat Delicious by Dennis Prescott. Copyright © 2017 by Dennis Prescott. Reprinted by permission of William Morrow, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers.

Eat Delicious: 125 Recipes for Your Daily Dose of Awesome
Dennis Prescott
HarperCollins

Filed Under: #84 Fall 2017, Cooking, Editions, Reviews Tagged With: 125 Recipes for Your Daily Dose of Awesome, Cookbooks, Cooking, Dennis Prescott, Eat Delicious, Food, HarperCollins, New Brunswick, Recipes

December 21, 2016 by Simon Thibault

The holidays in December are rooted in nostalgia, but perhaps none as strong as the desire to re-live flavours of holidays past: a mother’s baked good, a relative’s version of a holiday favourite. It’s like every year our taste buds are stuck in December mode and there are very particular things that please us. We want only those very particular things. Nostalgia is personal and occasionally regional.

In the case of Barry C Parsons’ Rock Recipes Christmas, the blogger from the Rock doles out a menu that tends to live quite comfortably in the past. That’s the thing about nostalgia – it doesn’t give a damn about updates or contemporary versions and visions. It wants things done the way they were always done, from recipe to ingredients.

This is especially true in the copious baking section of the book, littered with recipes that feature enough glacé and dried fruits to give you diabetes by the 12th day of Christmas. But it makes sense to have such an abundance of sugared staples in your pantry – historically much of the food sent to Newfoundland was preserved in one way or another and the need to be inventive was strong.

If I have one criticism for this book, it is that I wish there was a greater depth and breadth of knowledge surrounding the origins of many of these recipes. Familial notes bring a solid introduction but recipes like these deserve a greater history lesson.

Then again, this is easily forgiven, since the book includes recipes for Newfoundland dressing (stuffing) as well as a steamed patridgeberry (lingonberry) duff. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’ll be stuffing my face with Tweed Squares.

Rock Recipes Christmas
by Barry C. Parsons
Breakwater Books

Filed Under: #82 Winter 2016, Cooking, Reviews Tagged With: Barry C. Parsons, Breakwater Books, cookbook, Cooking with Simon, Newfoundland and Labrador, Recipes, Rock Recipes Christmas

April 30, 2016 by Simon Thibault

Sir John's TableA good biography allows the reader to enter the life of its subject. But rarely does it allow the reader to access the palate of its subject in such a detailed manner as in Sir John’s Table : The Culinary Life and Time of Canada’s First Prime Minister by Lindy Mechefske.

What at first glance could easily be a dry, academic tome detailing daily minutiae and musings, is in fact a sumptuous glimpse into the life of Sir John A. Macdonald. The recipes contained therein not only highlight what people were eating, but give glimpses into how social and economic status impact a person’s larder. But more importantly, they tempt the reader into making them, bringing the past into the present —­­­ instead of a Proustian madeleine, one may try the wedding cake, studded with currants.

Sir John’s Table: The Culinary Life and Times of Canada’s First Prime Minister
by Lindy Mechefske
Goose Lane Editions

Filed Under: Reviews Tagged With: cookbook, Food, Goose Lane Editions, Lindy Mechefske, Recipes, Sir John's Table: The Culinary Life and Times of Canada's First Prime Minister

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